Lanvin SS 2013 Review

Last season Alber Elbaz celebrated ten years at Lanvin. That anniversary collection was like a best of or a greatest hits. It wasn’t derivative but all the signatures that Elbaz has introduced during his tenure were there. Before his latest spring collection I wondered if there would be any major shift in the look because I felt the last collection was a great book-end to a decade of style. It would seem my hopes were dashed and I was a wee bit disappointed but it was just the fashion geek in me seeking a knockout collection. And I mean, it really was a knockout anyway because Elbaz’ collections are always beautiful and ultra luxe. Ugh, what the hell am I trying to say here? Okay, I was expecting a big change but there wasn’t one but it doesn’t matter anyway because I still loved the collection.

The tuxedos were in some ways a sad reminder of how utterly amazing he would’ve been had he not been fired from YSL all those years ago (thanks a bunch Tom Ford). And I say that because the tuxedos in this collection were amazing but they won’t get the credit they deserve because Lanvin aren’t primarily known for them. It’s their jewel tone and jewel smattered dresses that get all the attention.

There was definitely an experimental edge to some of the looks like the giant bows stamped down one side of a couple of dresses or the sleeveless jacket with a single white lapel flapping about. Apart from that it was business as usual. One sleeved tops, big shoulders, statement jewelry. My favourite look would have to be the black 80’s looking prom dress worn with high heel cowboy boots. And those boots have best seller written all over them. Most importantly, Elbaz creates desire. Here’s to another 10 years.

Stefano Pilati out at Yves Saint Laurent

Above: Stefano Pilati reacting to the news that he's been let go. I'm kidding, but seriously dude, why the long face?

Stefano Pilati's contract at YSL has not been renewed. Major sads. The fall 2012 collection will be his last and his successor will be named after the show. Rumoured to take over is Hedi Slimane. Pilati has been head designer at YSL since spring 2005. In that time he's raised the profile of the brand which has finally broken even after years of debt. Below are some of my favourite looks over the years.

Above: Spring 2005. A strong debut sets the tulip/bubble skirt trend.

Above: Fall 2005. Mariacarla Boscono in a cropped le smoking. This collection set off the trend for platform shoes.  

Above: Spring 2006

 Above: Fall 2008 featured Pilati's best cut pants that were full at the waist and cropped above the ankle. If you watch the show on Youtube a lot of the clothes in this collection appear to float around the body.

Above: Spring 2008 had wide-shouldered looks and brilliant use of colour.

Yves Saint Laurent SS 2012 Review

Summing up this collection in one word is easy: Uptight. I've loved Stefano Pilati since he started out at YSL. He restored French elegance and gave dignity back to the YSL brand after what many considered a crude butchering by Tom Ford. Over the years Pilati has quietly spawned trends but never quite got the kudos for it. It seemed like every collection he designed had something that editors and buyers went crazy over but it's rarely been the clothes. For spring 2012 the stand out piece from the entire collection were the shoes. A nice suede heel with a curved gold plate mounted to the front is the shoe of the season but the clothes are falling by the wayside yet again.
Unfortunately when the clothes are noticeably forgettable it reinforces the rumours that Pilati will be dropped from the house at any moment. And I feel sorry for the guy because he designs beautiful elegant clothes but are they too elegant? I know that may sound like a stupid question but I think Pilati needs to shock and not let the shadow of YSL hang over him. I think he's trying so hard to maintain the YSL woman that it's getting in the way of designing interesting clothes.

The wrap-style tops were the highlight as was look 29, a flawless baby-doll style dress in midnight blue. The let downs were the ruffled dresses in pine needle green and some 70's boho hippie-trail skirts and dresses.
Pilati needs to be less afraid of doing straight-forward sex. Instead he piles a shapeless coat on a model with bare legs and thinks it's unexpectedly erogenous but it's not working anymore. Hopefully in the coming seasons YSL will be summed up in two words: must have.

Tom Ford SS 2012 Review

I’ve been looking at Ford’s latest collection for spring 2012 and I’m struggling to come up with a conclusion about it. It’s difficult because Ford’s positioning of his brand is unusual and confusing. On a retail level the Tom Ford brand is just like all the other luxury brands with advertising in magazines, stores in major capital cities and entry-level luxury items such as fragrance and sunglasses (I say entry-level but $500 for sunglasses is hardly a discreet purchase). But on a fashion level it’s confusing. Ford is yet to present a typical runway show with press, photographers, critics, journalists etc, just like all other brands normally do at fashion week. Instead Ford has held intimate presentations to a hand-full of tippy top fashion people with no photography allowed. Several months later Ford releases a look book to the public. His spring show look book was just published on Vogue.com, two months after the spring shows. When he did this whole secret show thing for his debut he definitely created buzz. It was exciting to read reviews by critics and frustrating not being able to see any of the clothes. But three seasons in and for me the thrill has worn off.
Once fashion month is over I feel exhausted by all the collections I’ve seen because there are way too many people showing at fashion week so when Ford’s collection pops up on Vogue.com I’m a little underwhelmed by it all. It’s weird, it’s like Ford is more than happy for me to buy one of his Private Blend fragrances and porn star aviators but the clothes are to be kept away from me which makes me feel like a peasant (which I totally am). He’s treading two luxury environments and getting mixed results. It’s masstige and super-exclusive fashion. At fashion week you’ve got a media circus all seeing the same shows and from that you get these runaway ‘it’ items that can get huge press coverage or brand buzz such as those YSL pumps with the gold armour plates. Ford isn’t getting that.
 Ford’s spring collection is a reminder of what Tom Ford did well 10 years ago at Gucci and YSL which doesn’t bode well because it makes him look out of touch. He has said himself that he isn’t following trends which is evident in the off-trend peasant tops and bow-ankled sandals. There was too much going on with many looks that were teeming with tassels, fringing, ruching, ruffles, bows, and gold hardware. This detail explosion is tiring as your eyes have nowhere to rest. Overall it was too fussy and too flashy. There were still elements there that make me like Tom Ford’s work but if you’re looking for trends and direction you won’t find it here.

Raf Simons Taking Over at Yves Saint Laurent?

If Raf Simons ultimately takes over the helm at Yves Saint Laurent — as those familiar with the situation in Paris suggest — the designer will have found a sweet spot for his meticulous modernism.-Suzy Menkes, journalist, gossip mongerer
[nytimes]


Can this just not be true? Raf Simons is one of the best designers in the business right now but Stefano Pilati does wonderful things for YSL. I know Pilati doesn't grab headlines like Miuccia Prada or Marc Jacobs but his clothes do the talking. It's quiet, modern elegance.

NVR 4GET

UPDATE!!!

The rumors are false. Stefano to stay at YSL

*sing* Under da sea

The resort collections for 2012 have been quite hilarious. It's like, okay we get it, it's summer so we should be at the beach but whaddya want me to do, wear scuba gear? Fuck yes say a dick-load of designers. 

Ursula. Clearly excited by resort 2012

The whole time I was shopping these images I had that crab Sebastian from The Little Mermaid singing Under The Sea stuck in my head.

 

Under the seeeeeea

Under the seeeeeeea

Under the sea something you and me under the sea

I'm certain those are the lyrics. Ariel would be proud. 

First up...McQ, the Alexander McQueen diffusion line

Alexander Wangs urban sporty swimwear awesomeness

And Stefano Pilati did rope printed skirts and anchor charms. You want these clothes? Well stay away from the buffet when your on that cruise ship yo. 

I am so 1999

I've been wanting a new fragrance for a long time. I currently only have two (Higher by Dior and Kenzo Air) and they're both sporty so I wanted something a little more...romantic? Something less zesty? I'm not a fragrance freak who's all the top notes are too cloying or it's too synthetic. What the fuck are you talking about you perfumista cunt? I'm just jelly that I don't have a nose for fragrance and I'm completely unadventurous when it comes to wearing them. I like to forget that I'm wearing a fragrance. If I can smell it without having to put my wrist to my nose then I'm wearing too much and it annoys me no matter how nice it smells.

I recently went to David Jones to have a look around coz I had a voucher. For those not familiar, David Jones think they're the Harrods or Bergdorf of Australia.

It's funny when you enter the fragrance section of their store because virtually every staff member approaches you to ask if you need help. Compare that with any other department and they could give a shit and are completely unwilling to help. But that's the fragrance section, they don't give a shit either, they just think you're gonna steal something. I'm pretty sure that's sales assistant 101 training. People are less likely to steal if you make their presence known.
That's what I hate most about shopping is the sales assistants. As soon as they say hi it's like ugggh I need to leave now. I just can't browse comfortably and I feel suddenly rushed which is the last thing I want to do with fragrances because finding a new scent isn't easy. And it's because they're watching you from a distance waiting for you to swipe a bottle of Angel. As if!
I looked around for probably less than 5 minutes and smelled a few scents. Burberry Sport, The Beat, something from Kenzo (a sales assistant told me her boyfriend and her Dad or Brother or some other guy have that exact scent. Creepy! Get away from me you mad bitch), Marc Jacobs Bang which in real life has a really cheap feeling decanter. I felt disappointed and started to leave when I saw YSL had their own separate counter from the other stuff and if I haven't professed my love for YSL before then I'll do it now.

This is what happens after I see a YSL collection...

I have that same navy skirtsuit too. Embarrassment.

Below is the Spring 2011 video with Arizona Muse. Adore her if you've got a spare 4 minutes.

I saw L'Homme and initially found it a bit screechy but I sprayed some on my wrist and went to work. For the whole shift I was smelling my wrist and deciding if I liked it. I did so I bought it the next day. The bottle is quite smart too.

So that's the bottle sitting atop Pilot magazine's latest issue. It's quite good though I found it a bit too lifestyle-ish. Needs more fashion. 

If you look up perfume reviews of L'Homme they're not very positive. Boring, unadventurous, yawn but I love it because it's easy to wear which is why so many perfumistas dislike it. One person said it should've been released in 1999 and I'm like fuck yeah 1999 was a grenade of fabulous...

Hrmph, maybs 1999 wasn't such a good year

Aphex Twin with one of the scariest videos ever made. 

Vitamin C. lol

Balenciaga

Alexander McQueen Spring Summer 1999

Couture. Like real, honest to god, made in France by hand haute freakin couture

Jean Paul Gaultier’s collection is being hailed as a return to form. Perhaps now he has more time to devote to his collections since he stopped designing for Hermes. I mostly enjoyed it. The punk elements were a bit tired. Like, punk? Really? Balenciaga did it for fall 2011 too and I didn’t like that much either.

Male model Andrej Pejic dragged up for la mariée. I don’t know if I’ve mentioned this before but I met him at a gay bar about a year ago I think. My friend who was with me at the time was falling over himself and I was just thinking whyyyyy? My taste in models is so vanilla anyway. If you’re skinny and look like a girl then I’m not ripping out your spread in Arena Homme Plus for a high-fashion fap.

Clockwise from top: Iris Strubegger, Linda Fargo, Lea T, Marc Jacobs, Andrej Pejic, model wearing JPG, Yves Saint Laurent pre-fall 2011. 

Something else that occurred to me is how fashionable it is to be transgendered right now. It’s so on trend right? Lea T, Pejic, The whole YSL le smoking trend, Marc Jacobs on Industrie, Linda Fargo in Paper.

It’s not like this sort of thing hasn’t been done before but it’s just trendy right now. It’s not even daring it’s just like, ooh, think I’ll trans it up tonight. Where’s my beaded shift? Maybe trans-wear will be the new skinny jeans/bow tie/geek glasses.

Dior. What can I say? John Galliano just stop mining the 40’s and 50’s. Look to the future. Fuck this Lady Dior bs.

Givenchy. A little too look at how many hours this took to make rather than just feeling the clothes. But this for me is fashion. So much control. So focussed. Brilliant.

Newbies: Alexis Mabille. I don’t like what he does. I find it deeply unfashionable. Bouchra Jarrar: Interesting to see what small companies can do.

Chanel was inconsistent. I don’t know it just seemed all over the place. There were some lovely, relaxed pieces that looked young and fresh. It may have been my imagination but there appeared to be less jewellery and the ballet flats were sweet too.

Valentino: Beige ruffles. I don’t even like what they do at Valentino but now the clothes seem more recognisable than ever when I’m flicking through magazines. Four years ago I wouldn’t have been able to pick out a Valentino dress but now I spot them a mile away. I guess they must be doing something right but I just want Alessandra Facchinetti back. Is she working for Tom Ford now?

YSL? Chloe? They're Like Practically The Same Anyway

The Love, Chloe fragrance campaign apparently features a YSL belt which is a big no no. It's a Chloe campaign so everything should be by Chloe.

The stylist was Joe McKenna who's been styling since the 80's for The Face (oh sweet Jesus RIP) and every top brand and mag you can name so it's not like some young silly fashion ditz stylist got the job and royally eff'd up their career. He won't be sent to fashion purgatory styling for Millers.

If anything, this is an indication of how boring fashion is right now that this small misstep should become news. Will he be hiring Gloria Allred to defend him in court? Will he have to issue a sincere apology to all the fans he let down?

Seriously, it's a fucking belt and both Chloe and YSL get a dickload of free publicity so I tip my hat to Joe McKenna.

Oh and check out the ad directed by Roman Coppola. Hilarious.

Monastic at YSL

Stefano Pilati’s YSL show was interesting. A few critics found it too strict and lacking allure. I think you really had to look for the allure and the sensuality of the pieces because it was certainly there in the sheer sleeves on a top or the dippy hems of skirts that drew attention to the legs and added interest to what would otherwise be just another pencil skirt.

YSL under Pilati’s direction has for several seasons now focussed on daywear and really, how much sensuality do you want to ooze when attending an important business meeting?

I do agree that after 30-odd looks the collection as a whole was stand-offish and cold but on their own they look chic and powerful. I also loved the 70’s new York working girl silhouette with a skirt that hit below the knee. It was strangely refreshing.

Givenchy Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2010 Review

Upon first looking at Ricardo Tisci's spring couture collection for Givenchy I was disappointed. I whipped up a review almost imediately after viewing it but left it and went to work. I mulled over it during the day and looked over it again and I take back most of what I said.
Initially it mostly failed to muster any drama, a key element to Tisci's work. Something was missing. If you look at his 2010 pre-fall collection it's a shining example of what he does best; sharp brooding meets soft romanticism. It's in all his work and many of his trademarks were in this collection: the graphic lacework, the military coat, the organic coral-like embellishment and the nude tones. What he failed to do was whip it into shape and really make the whole collection sing.
What I'd missed the first time round was Tisci delving into the archives and looking back at the 70's. He admitted it was something he'd always been too afraid to do. It seems rather stupid that I'd missed the references to the 70's and Saint Laurent but Tisci's never done this before.

Some of the looks were too busy and the clothes were jostling for attention weighed down with extravagant beads and pailettes then topped off with wide lace hats.

I've studied look two repeatedly as if maybe I'd missed something but I cannot make sense of it. A black satin corset skirt with puckering seams, a cut-out bra which appeared to be clamping the model's breasts making them look short and saggy, a tulle net top and a grim looking hat. Maybe it was shot from a bad angle? Maybe it was just fucking ugly.

Above: Hideous you guys!

Lara Stone looked soigne in a fluffy pink bowed top with cuffed shorts and thigh-hugging suede boots. Other standouts included a gorgeous top with ruffles peeling away from the decolletage. The ruffles also appeared in a black feather-trimmed dress arching out from the elbows displaying Tisci's knack for silhouette.

Despite the mis-steps some of these clothes are truly special and I have huge respect for Tisci and the vision he brings to haute couture.