So far Jonny Johansson's fall collection for Acne has been one of the highlights of fashion month. In some ways his remarkable use of colour, texture and silhouette reminds me of Prada because there's love put into the clothes but they also have an air of severity and look uncompromisingly cool.
Coats were wide, cropped, pillowy and brightly coloured while pants were low with built-in girdles elongating the silhouette. The fabric textures were incredible in their range from spongy to pilled to shiny and slick. Cinching was in play too with wide Bakelite-look belts, the aforementioned girdles and chin-scraping neck pieces. In what feels like only a couple of seasons Acne has gone from just another denim brand to directional fashion house. Weird right?
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