Thakoon Spring Summer 2013 Review

Above: Beautiful, imaginative, striking. Below: No!!! Stop it. This is not fashion.

Thakoon Panichgul’s spring summer show was perplexing. It opened with a dreamy white strapless dress that had a print of a golden birdcage matched perfectly with the cut of the dress. The cage had birds, butterflies and flowers bursting from it. The first four looks featured this print on tops, jackets, and skirts but the rest of the collection looked like it had been designed by someone else and was derivative of so many designers.

 Instead of seeing originality I saw a pick n mix of popular looks from other designers such as the criss cross wrap top with midriff peekaboo. While not revolutionary, Prada did the same thing three years ago as well as Proenza Schouler last season. Same goes for the oversize pailettes on skirts (Prada, Christopher Kane, Stella McCartney). While a lot of these looks were pretty and will most likely sell I don’t feel that ¾ of this show is the work of a strong designer because I don’t see an independent voice. But based on those first four looks I don’t think Thakoon will be going out business any time soon. 

Below: Vibes from other designers. Clockwise from left: Christopher Kane, Prada, Prada, Balenciaga

Chloe SS 2012 Review

Well Hannah MacGibbon sadly got the boot from the director's chair and former Pringle Of Scotland designer Clare Waight Keller jumped right in and had a go at cracking the reins. And she did well.
"Fluidity and femininity, but boyish" is how Keller summed up the collection and that's exactly what she gave us. There were sort of Swiss dot lace shirts, low slung dresses and skirts with thick leather belts that I'm not sure were needed. The embroidered florals were a design lifted from Karl Lagerfeld's tenure which I thought was quite a bold move and I like that she cherry picked bits and pieces like that from a past designer because there's a nice history of great designers who've worked at Chloe.

Like Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo before her, Keller is selling the same dream. The Chloe girl is a care free, tomboyish character who'll always look back fondly at the 70's. If anything, Keller is dipping her toes and treading lightly across the Chloe DNA.

It's a solid collection but for a debut it doesn't scream at you and the Chloe girl never screams but Keller will have to work her way around that otherwise she'll end up in designer purgatory like MacGibbon and Paulo Melim Andersson.

Stella McCartney Spring Summer 2012 Review

The collection started out with clean whites and aquatic blues. Very fresh, very sporty. Up close you could see sports mesh inserts traced with embroidered curlicues which softened the clothes making them ever so slightly strange-in a good way.

The silhouette was slightly boxy thanks to an absence of belts. In fact there was no ornamentation at all, the clothes with their corded curls and bold micro prints were enough without the need for extra junk. The boxy shapes continued with pyjama shirts (a trend that's been rearing it's dubious head in a smattering of collections for the past 3 seasons) and McCartney's signature tailored jackets this time done with beautifully curved lapels and plenty of swing.

What resonated most was that despite the curves and the embroideries it all looked straight forward and easy to wear. The collection wasn't brimming with ideas but there were enough to make it one of the best of the season. 

Viktor and Rolf SS 2012 Review

 Okay ladies, srsly, look at that dress on the far left. How do you piece that together so seamlessly? Viktor and Rolf are witches. 

Viktor and Rolf chose dolls clothes as the inspiration for their latest collection. It worked well with their interests in proportion and shape despite being a little poorly received by critics.
Though it wasn’t their most avant garde collection there was a ton of stuff that was on-trend but still had that VnR touch without making them look like a bore. The wide, Barbie doll-sized belts were also at Céline and the brocade swirls were at Stella McCartney too. Some very simple cut A-line high-waisted skirts and dresses were like those at Miu Miu and the mid-riff exposing crop tops, well they showed up in a number of collections too. Whether or not crop tops will make a comeback is up to you.

There were a series of outfits that had cut-outs of baroque swirls. I cannot fathom how this was done because the construction is flawless. There’s not a single spot of puckering seam edges which can be quite common in this type of work but for Viktor and Rolf? Nothing. I can only presume these were laser cut but still, to piece these together with mesh inserts seamlessly is unreal. It honestly blew me away.

Narciso Rodriguez Spring Summer 2012

 No. Yes. Yes

No. No. Fuck me dead, no.

Rodriguez has really pushed himself into new territory this season. Regular customers will probably be perplexed but Rodriguez is long overdue for something new. Was he trying something new because he felt genuinely inspired or was it simply trend-driven? It was pastel colour blocking and tricky draping-too tricky at times.
Some of the pieces looked over- designed and recalled the work of Helmut Lang and Balenciaga. The jackets didn’t work. They were strong in the shoulder then fell straight and low and swishy. Extremely unflattering. Look at a Stella McCartney collection if you want to see a well constructed oversize tailored jacket. Despite the tricksy construction the collection was concise with just 30 looks. It’s such a drag when designers like Michael Kors show 60+ looks because if you don’t get your message across after 30 looks then you’re clutching at straws. The pants were strong and some of best I’ve seen so far (Karen Walker's pants were great too but they always are).

Karen Walker gives good pant.

If Alexander McQueen weren't cremated he would roll in his grave

Last Monday night the Met had their annual ball to celebrate their new Alexander McQueen exhibition Savage Beauty and the red carpet was one giant hot mess.


Call me crazy but I was kinda expecting this....

But instead got treated to this....

Rosie Huntington Whitely wearing Burberry. Can you fucking believe this bitch? This is Alexander McQueen, not some fucking girls night out at Copacabana in Fitzroy.

Aaaaand this...

I don't know who this ho Jesicca Szchor or Szor or whoever is but this outfit? Inappropes. If I had a child I would do this...

Now brace yourself for this next one and grab some tissues because your eyes may bleed...

At first I was like....

But then I..

Serena Williams, I can't. 

There were just so many bad clothes that night but they weren't all horrible and some people actually wore McQueen. 

Oh silly me, that's not McQueen. They're ALL wearing Stella McCartney. Can you believe she whitewashed the place with her clothes?

Above: Stella McCartney at the Met Ball.

Heather Mooney? Is That You?

Karl Lagerfeld had this to say about retirement…

“I have a contract for life so it all depends on who I would like to hand it to. At the moment I’d say Haider Ackermann.”

Emphasis on atm. I love Lagerfeld but homegirl is old. I watched the Lagerfeld documentary and he’s blind! He was reading something and was holding it up to his face, like right against his face. It was like something right out of Absolutely Fabulous.
Today it might be Ackermann but tomorrow it could be Baptiste Giabiconi.

Jump to 1:40. Hilarity. 

Ackermann’s response?

"What can one possibly say to such a phrase?! Such a compliment! Honored I feel, how can one not be?! In all honesty tremendously, immensely touched especially coming from Monsieur Lagerfeld."

Gayest response ever right?

He later said "I think Mr. Lagerfeld said something that was a really nice compliment. But I think people should take it as he took it: a compliment. No more, no less.”

In other words, he called Lagerfeld immediately to thank him and Lagerfeld was all wer? Quoi?

With so many talented designers out there is Ackermann right for the job? Chanel ticks so many boxes that make the brand so successful and I’m sure they’d like to keep it that way when Lagerfeld sashays off to heaven. They’re one of the top luxury fashion brands in the world with a slew of house signatures that are instantly recognized as Chanel, even if they’re not the real deal.

Oh hey Court, is that Chanel? Didn't think so

Tweed, chains, the camellia flower, 2-tone shoes, quilting, No. 5. The list goes on and most of them are distinctively Chanel. No other house comes even close to such brand awareness. And then they have the star designer. Lagerfeld. Outspoken, flamboyant (that’s journalist-speak for total fag) and has an anecdote for every strand of his grey pomp.
He’s such an integral part of Chanel that the house will undoubtedly change when he is gone. The house will go on but Lagerfeld’s void will be felt and no one will have the impact he’s had. I don’t question Ackermann’s abilities (his Spring 2011 collection of jewel tone mullet dresses was tres swell) but his personality may not suit the brand. But what the fuck do I know. I used to think corduroy cargo pants were a legitimate daywear option.


Here’s my list of who should take over when Lagerfeld retires/dies.

Luella-Not only is Luella unemployed (fashion design-wise anyway. Sadly her label has shuttered so she’s wide open) but she had an amazing Spring 2009 collection that was like a young frisky Chanel girl after doing a line of blow and eating a scone. It was yummy.

Rei Kawakubo- Can you even imagine? I didn’t think so.

Alber Elbaz- He ticks every box. He’s distinctive looking, apparently a screaming diva if things aren’t done his way (yes, that’s a box that needs to be ticked). Oh, and incredibly talented.

Chloe, let go of the talented designer you hipster freak

Should bequeath his job to a bunch of cats like all crazy old people do.

Here’s my list of people that if they got the job, I’d die a little inside.

Marc Jacobs. I would die A LOT inside if Marc Jacobs did Chanel.

Dolce and Gabbana. Greasy Italian tax evaders who haven’t done a great collection in forever. And Gabbana dissed Stella McCartney over Twitter. Mee-owwww

Fabio Viscovo: I LOVE Stella McCartney!
Stefano Gabbana: who ??????
Fabio Viscovo: ahahaha! You don’t like Stella McCartney?!
Stefano Gabbana: Who ????? The daughter of the singer ?????
Fabio Viscovo: Yeeees! Stella McCartney, the designer !!!!!
Fabio Viscovo: Stefanoooooooo, please !!!!! You don’t know Stella’s a stylist ?????
Stefano Gabbana: What’s she known for?? What’s her specialty??
Stefano Gabbana: What sort of style does she do? What’s so special about it??
Fabio Viscovo: She makes a lot of minimalist sequined dresses… … .. they’re really feminine. They’re perfect for a nude look!
Fabio Viscovo: Come on! You’ve just got to have seen them! And although she’s really famous … she’s still an upcoming designer!
Stefano Gabbana: Yeah, she’s upcoming after 15 years doing nothing!! Hahahaha
Stefano Gabbana: Aaaaaaa …… I see you appreciate nonentities!! Bravo!

Henry Holland. Embroidered tweed slogan t-shirts? When hell freezes over Miguel Androver.

Anna Sui. That would actually be hilarious but then quickly become tragic.

So I wanna do this like, prairie patchwork skirt right? You feel me?

Raf Simons. Chanel? Minimal? It didn’t work in the 90’s so why bother. You stay at Jil Sander Mr Simons. You stay.

it looks like a ball sack

                                                    

 I am not amused

I Can't Believe It's Not Denim

Skirt length: V, V important

This was a really strong collection for Stella McCartney and she had some of the best tailoring of all the collections I’ve seen for Spring.
Those citrus fruit prints are so fucking outrageously cool. They’re like that lickable wallpaper from Charlie and the chocolate factory.
And those denim tops? They’re not really denim y’all. They’re like a knit or some shit, isn’t that awesome? I love Stella McCartney. I want to have her babies. LOL JK. She has like 4 kids. I hate kids.

Fuck Me In The Ass

Above: Givenchy Spring 2011

Above: Celine Spring 2011

Resort or Spring or whatever you wanna call em collections are flying in and the mood is different, the approach is more considered than ever before.

I've been finding these pre-collections quite interesting to observe over the past few years and seeing how designers and brands are coping with having to design 2 extra collections per year. For the most part a lot of designers are taking it on with gusto.
A few years ago resort was just that. Resort. It was marine inspired, light cotton clothes that you could stuff into an overnight bag before jetting off to St Tropez in a pair of blue and white espadrilles. Fast-forward a few years and it's like, who the fuck goes to St Tropez? Valentino?
So now we've got designers such as Stella McCartney referring to Resort as Spring. The angle has changed and so have the clothes. And for a good reason. The clothes that are coming out for Spring and Fall are equally as good, if not better in some cases than the main collections. I say this because a lot of the conceptual bullshit (which I dearly love) is cut out and what you're left with is a clear message and clothes that people want to wear.
Go to Style.com and take a look at Celine and Givenchy. The clothes are beautiful (Celine in particular) and none of them are beach appropriate. Yay.

The only concerns I'm hearing about Spring and Fall collections are that designers may suffer from burn-out and customers are being given too many trends and ideas, leaving the market over-saturated with clothes.

I think in a few years Spring and Fall will either collapse and burn or it'll be just like Summer Winter with a full runway schedule.

On a different ntoe, how badly is Phoebe Philo caning the industry right now? She's had 4 collections and she's already got an it-bag and it-bags are dead.

Tulle Covered Pailettes

Stella McCartney showed a very sensible side for fall. If you've followed her work since Chloe then you'll realise her work has matured and grown as she has, what with getting hitched and having kids. Remember the Brixton t-shirts she did for her debut show? Yeah, those days are gone but she still manages to work in her favourite looks.

Not a collection goes by when she doesn't do at least one of the following: the oversized chunky sweater/cardigan, a sports coat, a slim slack and a pointy shoe.

One of my favourite looks was a slim slack in grey wool matched with a grey jumper. It was smart and very simple.

There were pailette dresses covered with a layer of floaty tulle that made for a chic and understated impression.It was like muted glamour.

Above: I think this is a really neat detail. You've got this camel and black striped top that then continues onto the pants with a camel waistband. Subtle surrealism.