Below The Knee Is Where It's At

Top from left: Altuzarra, I can't remember!!!, BCBG Max Azria

Above from left: Prabal Gurung, United Bamboo, Victoria Beckham

This is the new skirt/dress length I've been yammering on about. Pair with knee high boots for that perfect late 60's Lou Lou de la Falaise chilling with Yves Saint Laurent and Betty Catroux look.

From left: Betty Catroux, Yves Saint Laurent, Lou Lou de la Falaise. 1969.

Catholic-free Givenchy

Givenchy didn’t capture my imagination this season. Like his last couture collection it lacked polish and it felt very cookie cutter Tisci. All the ingredients were there: lace, single blocks of colour for an entire outfit, loads of black and leather. But there were a few nice touches like the opening coat in a boney beige tone. There were also some beautiful tuxedo jackets and there’s been quite a few this season, United Bamboo comes to mind. I did find the layering theme interesting. If you view some of the looks you’ll see what I mean. And how weird is it that Tisci and Ghesquiere did a remarkably similar pant. They both did a high waisted version with a zip that was half undone to create these curling flaps. I didn’t find it particularly inventive but it was a nice touch and in Tisci’s case added to the layering theme he had.

I’d like to see Tisci try and move away from his usual schtick, perhaps do a tracksuit or something remotely humorous. He’s taken some steps, like removing any traces of Catholocism but it’s like come one, push yourself further, stop being so comfortable.

New York Disappointments

Fall 2010 has been a lacklustre season for New York. There were a lot of collections that I was going to write individual reviews for but I just didn’t feel inspired to do so. I was left feeling empty and scratching my head by designers that have so much talent but failed to deliver.

Chris Benz was clearly inspired but he didn’t pass that on to the customer. There was a cute gradated sequin top but then he’d do a plain drawstring pant or an artlessly draped dress. The plaid jackets were hideous as were the printed wrap dresses. The fur gloves were just a sad rip off of Marni and Donna Karan from last fall.

Above and below:

Benz does an odd tulip wrap dress with a retina melting print and this plaid coat is just too many shades of wrong. I don't know you guys.

Juan Carlos Obando caught my eye a couple of seasons ago but this time it was dull, pared back basics. The bandaged tops and dresses were a standout but the pants with tank tops were not.

Above: Juan Carlos gorgeousness

Below: Juan Carlos. Juan, babe, what's happening here?

United Bamboo did a safe somewhat unimaginative show compared to seasons past. The opera-length leather gloves were a Lanvin hangover and I’m thinking just get your own ideas people. My theory is if you’ve seen it done by someone else and you’ve seen it done better then why bother? It’s just cherry picking from the best collections.

I know that a lot of the pieces in the show would look great in-store and the coats especially would last a life time but perhaps a runway show isn’t what’s needed in an already overstuffed NY fashion week calendar.

Below: United Bamboo. I see YSL Fall 07

Below: Way too Lanvin

Below: The cut of the jacket is cool. I like how it's slung over the hips