Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli replaced Alessandra Facchinetti after she was unceremoniouslydumped because Valentino felt she wasn’t referencing his archive enough. He said “There is an existing archive with thousands of dresses where they (Maria and Pier) can draw and take inspiration from to create a Valentino product that is relevant today. It is a shame that their predecessor didn't feel this need."
So it was a shame she didn’t see a need to tow the ruffled chiffon line. And now after a couple of seasons under their belts Maria and Pier have strayed into conceptual design territory, much like Faccchinetti only less successfully.
After their paint-by-Valentino-numbers spring RTW show it took my eyes a moment to adjust to what I was seeing. The models looked like they’d hitched a ride into Paris on the back of a Balenciaga truck via Burberry Drive, Ungaro Way and Rodarte Ave.
It wasn’t all bad but a lot of it was. Look 25 was pure tack. A red stripper dress with tiers of mini ruffles snaking around it that no doubt took 500 hours to make. It doesn't take a stretch of the imagination to see the seamstresses crying while making these outfits.
Look 32’s conception went something like this “omg we should totes do a column dress with multi-coloured tiers of chiffon but let’s do some of the tiers in clashing neon. Squeal!”
Then there was look 33, a hippie cape that looked like Matthew Williamson vomited all over it after a bad acid trip. Seriously you guys, it was hideous.
Pier said of the collection "We think that to keep a future in couture, it's necessary to bring a new customer who wants something cooler.” Though the collection was a mess they should be commended for being brave enough to step out from Valentino’s over-bearing shadow and overstuffed archive but they’ll need to try harder to get that new, young customer they’re after.
Posts
