Showing posts with label Burberry. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Burberry. Show all posts

Valentino Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2010 Review

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli replaced Alessandra Facchinetti after she was unceremoniouslydumped because Valentino felt she wasn’t referencing his archive enough. He said There is an existing archive with thousands of dresses where they (Maria and Pier) can draw and take inspiration from to create a Valentino product that is relevant today. It is a shame that their predecessor didn't feel this need."
So it was a shame she didn’t see a need to tow the ruffled chiffon line. And now after a couple of seasons under their belts Maria and Pier have strayed into conceptual design territory, much like Faccchinetti only less successfully.
After their paint-by-Valentino-numbers spring RTW show it took my eyes a moment to adjust to what I was seeing. The models looked like they’d hitched a ride into Paris on the back of a Balenciaga truck via Burberry Drive, Ungaro Way and Rodarte Ave.
It wasn’t all bad but a lot of it was. Look 25 was pure tack. A red stripper dress with tiers of mini ruffles snaking around it that no doubt took 500 hours to make. It doesn't take a stretch of the imagination to see the seamstresses crying while making these outfits.
Look 32’s conception went something like this “omg we should totes do a column dress with multi-coloured tiers of chiffon but let’s do some of the tiers in clashing neon. Squeal!”
Then there was look 33, a hippie cape that looked like Matthew Williamson vomited all over it after a bad acid trip. Seriously you guys, it was hideous.
Pier said of the collection "We think that to keep a future in couture, it's necessary to bring a new customer who wants something cooler.” Though the collection was a mess they should be commended for being brave enough to step out from Valentino’s over-bearing shadow and overstuffed archive but they’ll need to try harder to get that new, young customer they’re after.

PRE-FALL


Burberry Pre-fall 2010

Oh shit, pre-fall collections are starting to pop up online. It's hard to look at these clothes when it's Spring, I mean fuck, I'm wearing boxer shorts and a t-shirt right now and have my fan on.
The Burberry collection is up on WWD, I suggest you take a look. There's some seriously chic coats and the best pair of trousers I've seen in a long time, cut neatly above the ankle.

BURBERRY PRORSUM SPRING 2010

The Burberry Prorsum spring collection was an important show for London and the star wattage (Gwyneth Paltrow, Emma Watson, Liv Tyler, Victoria Beckham, Freida Pinto, Dev Patel, Mary-Kate Olsen) amped up an otherwise tame week which is unusual for London.
This is also the first time Burberry have shown in London under head designer Christopher Bailey’s direction.
For spring he showed a soft collection of clothes in optimistic colours. There were draped, knotted dresses in saltwater taffy, candy floss, lavender and lemon sorbet that won’t rot your teeth. The look was balanced out with long skinny leather belts and anchored with some great stomping platform boots with cutouts.
The knotting theme was cleverly used to build up shoulders on trenches so they knocked that trend out of the way without being too obvious. The knots were used to best effect on the hem of double breasted, trench-like dresses.

After a whopping 48 looks the message was clear, lighten up people!





AQUASCUTUM SPRING 2010

Disappointing presentation.
I don’t know how models contracts work but what’s the difference between models standing around by a wall or strutting down a catwalk? Do agencies charge more for a catwalk run versus a presentation? Sure the venue could be massively down-scaled by having a presentation thus saving money but yeah it’s lacking something.
Anyway, the clothes reminded me of Burberry and that’s kinda unavoidable considering both houses started out making coats but the washed out crinkled texture of some of Aquascutum’s coats looked like Burberry-lite.
That’s not to say they weren’t chic though but the skirts and dresses were hideous, floor dusting monsters. I can’t remember rightly but I heard a few months back that there was some problems at Aquascutum. I can’t remember exactly what those problems were. Maybe cash flow?

*Just googled it, turns out British company Jaeger recently purchased Aquascutum. Looks like the Japanese owners weren't happy with it. I'm not surprised.