Showing posts with label Spring Summer 2011. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Spring Summer 2011. Show all posts

Jonathan Saunders

I love colour-blocking so I tend to automatically love a Jonathan Saunders collection because it's becoming his forte. The choice of colours were nice particularly the yellow with the dove grey. The clothes though, well they're really not worth writing home about. Shirts with sporty raglan sleeves, box pleat tennis skirts blah blah, all familiar shapes, completely wearable and non-threatening. Actually I did like the full cut of the sleeves on the shirts which is something that popped up at Prada too.

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Michael Van Der Ham

This is Michael Van Der Ham's third collection and the clothes look like they have multiple personality disorder. Or maybe Frankenstein's wardrobe. In a good way. It's like different dresses reconfigured to make something new. So instead of wearing just one dress with say, a cute print, you get 3 or 4 dresses with lots of varying details. You're getting the best of each dress.
It's something that's been done before by other designers, I'm sure I've seen this type of thing at Moschino but Van Der Ham is more painterly with his colours and textures. Unfortunately the clothes lacked polish but I put that down to being a young designer who's just started and probably has very little money. With the right backers he could go far. One of the highlights of London.

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Blue Blue Heart

These are the most striking blues I've seen. This is at Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2011

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Z-Spoke By Zac Posen

Zac Posen debuted his lower priced line Z-spoke. Half the price and twice the ugly. That’s harsh I know but the collection is dreadful.

He has now decided to show his main line in Paris because apparently Europeans ‘get’ his sensibility but I really don’t believe this will help.

Yes, he may carve a niche in Europe as the American in Paris but ughhh his clothes!!!! You know what it is? He’s not cool. When he first started out he got so much buzz because he was incredibly young-only 21-and he was doing highly sophisticated dresses. I feel like he’s run out of steam because he’s just not creating desirable clothes. They’re not cool or distinguishable from what’s already out there in a million stores.

To a point I agree that his work is better suited to the European market but he needs to work on what he’s designing instead of attributing a loss of business to Americans not liking or understanding what he creates. An ungly dress is an ugly dress in any market.

Take a look…

Jason Wu Spring Summer 2011

This is the best collection I’ve seen from Jason Wu. Prior to this collection I’ve had very little interest in his work. Everything was always so precious and a lot of people were dubbing him the young Oscar De La Renta whom I also have no interest in.
But this collection was concise, elegant and it wasn’t terribly fussy even though it had a French streak running through it; or more what an American thinks is French. Like, hmm, French women wear polka dots and bows and lace, tra la la let’s eat bon bons and listen to Serge Gainsbourg. But it just looked sooooo good mixed with all-American khaki and stripes. It just worked brilliantly. The stripes!!! When I first saw them I had de ja vu. I was thinking Marc Jacobs Spring. What year? 07? 08? Turns out it was Louis Vuitton Spring 09 and it was quite different to what was on Wu’s runway but I find it interesting that something as simple as stripes can become such a memorable print. Black and white? Forgettable. Mustard and black? Seared to my skull! Also the shoes and bags are going to be on many a wish-list next summer.
This collection is amazing and sure, giant bow tops may not fly off the racks but for 15 minutes on that runway it was pure vision of what modern American sportswear can be.



This is the Louis Vuitton look from Spring 09 I was talking about. I still love this collection. The hair is just fucked. I love it. And the shoes too. Those Spicy sandals were sooooo widely copied.

Costello Tagliapietra Spring Summer 2011

Design duo Costello Tagliapietra are masters at draping jersey. This was most evident in the first few looks that came down the runway but after that things became a bit strained. I usually love their work, it’s so subtle and beautifully made that a single dress from them is a major building block for an outfit that will last you years.

For spring it looks like they were experimenting and really pushing themselves and that’s admirable but there were so many looks that just didn’t work. Silk sack dresses with diagonal ruching looked awful, as did the questionable looking prints. But it wasn’t all bad. A gorgeous long sleeved dress with a fist-full of pin-tucks fanning out from the torso was testament to the restrained elegance they do so well.

Richard Chai Love Spring/Summer 2011

One of the most appealing collections I’ve seen from Richard Chai. He describes himself as a 90’s child and that’s evident in this collection.
There were plenty of layered gauzy fabrics that looked easy and comfortable without sacrificing style. The transparent pants were a bit much but the pallazzo pants more than made up for that boo-boo. Most of the jackets were unappealing except for one that was sleevelesss and done in leather and then sliced with something that looked like men’s suiting. Does that make sense? I’ll put in a picture.



I hate to say this because it sounds stupid but there was something very zen about the collection but without being all dirty hippie and barefoot. God I hate hippies.




Isn't he cute!

Richie Rich Spring/Summer 2011

Utterly disappointing collection. It was just so middling and felt very uninspired. It was like 50’s/80’s prom stops by K-mart to pick up some Maybelline eye shadow.
The hair and makeup-blue raccoon eyes?- did the collection no favours and neither did the venue; a clinical white expansive runway put the clothes in a very bad light. It was like thrift store finds mixed with Target basics. A 50’s looking prom dress then coochie cutters and I’m like, where’s the connection? In my mind I imagine Richie Rich is supposed to appeal to uber fashionable party kids and pop stars like Lady Gaga but after seeing this It’s more Lourdes Leon and Jersey Shore.
And this is completely the sort of show where everyone backstage says things like guuuurl that is so hot. Werq it bitch, werq it. Oh and Ellen was there dyke repping.

WTFUCKERY