Narciso Rodriguez Spring Summer 2012

 No. Yes. Yes

No. No. Fuck me dead, no.

Rodriguez has really pushed himself into new territory this season. Regular customers will probably be perplexed but Rodriguez is long overdue for something new. Was he trying something new because he felt genuinely inspired or was it simply trend-driven? It was pastel colour blocking and tricky draping-too tricky at times.
Some of the pieces looked over- designed and recalled the work of Helmut Lang and Balenciaga. The jackets didn’t work. They were strong in the shoulder then fell straight and low and swishy. Extremely unflattering. Look at a Stella McCartney collection if you want to see a well constructed oversize tailored jacket. Despite the tricksy construction the collection was concise with just 30 looks. It’s such a drag when designers like Michael Kors show 60+ looks because if you don’t get your message across after 30 looks then you’re clutching at straws. The pants were strong and some of best I’ve seen so far (Karen Walker's pants were great too but they always are).

Karen Walker gives good pant.

Esteban Cortazar x Exito

Esteban Cortazar has linked up with Colombian retail giant Exito and designed a capsule collection.
Estaban was last designing for Emanuel Ungaro but left amid reports he was forced to team up with Lindsay Lohan who would ‘consult’ for the brand, whatever that means. Cortazar quit and Estrella Archs tag-teamed with Lohan and that’s how pasties were, like invented.
The collection looks great but is derivative of Alexander Wang (the sweats, the hoodies, the tanks), Proenza Schouler (the high-waisted skirts) and even a bit of Helmut Lang.
I know that A Wang didn’t pioneer the tank top and PS the high-waisted skirt but Wang in particular really ‘owns’ these looks wouldn’t you say?
I never liked what he did at Ungaro and this is such a great departure from that and much more reflective of his 26 years of age.

Btw, where did Hanne Gaby Odiele come by such a giant forehead? I feel like we’re related.