Doo Ri Fall 2012 Review

Doo Ri Chung's fall 2012 collection was aggressive but also very alluring. The opening look, cream pants with a silk waistband, and a draped top wrapped around the neck, with knit sleeves looked effortless and on paper it sounds overwhelming but it worked. This criss-crossing motif was peppered throughout the collection of mostly black daywear in jersey and leather. Some of the knitwear looks were more successful than others due to the fact that draped chunky knits are almost impossible to flatter even the most slender of models. There were also a few pieces that had very detailed lattice-like details which the collection could have done without because it looked fussy in comparison to the draped looks. I think the the collection was a bold, inspired take on expertly crafted American sportswear.

GET INSPIRED

Boot by Jil Sander. Bag by Alexander McQueen. Would you just look at that little skull nesting in fur! So cute. 

Long flowy coaty shit is best for next fall or if you're like me and live in the Southern hemisphere it's best for right now. From top left: Theyskens Theory, Antonio Berardi, Gucci, Gareth Pugh, Alexander Wang, Doo Ri. 

Camilla Skovgaard. I diiiie

Creepy 40's flesh boot by Prada. Weiiiird. And glittery, suede bootie from Miu Miu. Coooool.

Doo Ri Chung knocks em dead

With some designers work I'm kinda like ok whatever that's nice but it's not impressive. That's how I've felt about Doo Ri up until now. For fall Ms Chung showed a long, lean silhouette sticking to grey, black and midnight blue. The grey sleeveless coat in the top image is perfection with the draped top and cuffs. It's just so cool. The image below left has the new skirt length that I may never stop blogging about this season. It's 70's, it's amazing and several designers have already shown their own version. This collection is going to push Doo Ri up into the cool kids camp along with Alexander Wang and Proenza Schouler. And can I just say how strong New York has been so far?! This is becoming a really impressive season. Go New York!!!

Doo Ri a Mixed Bag for Fall 2010

Doo Ri Chung is a designer who should be right up there with the rest of New York’s young hot designers like Altuzarra, Rodarte, Alexander Wang and Proenza Schouler. Afterall she’s a CFDA winner, she’s young and very talented but her work seems to elude the runway accolades afforded to her peers. This annoys me somewhat because she produced a solid fall collection with plenty of pieces to like. A suit cut like a pair of pajamas was cool though she’ll be in stiff competition with United Bamboo’s version.

She used fur (like virtually every other NY designer this season) for the trim of a black wool coat that was smothered with sequins.

Though her forté, some of the draped dresses looked heavy-handed and vaguely reminiscent of that Balmain dress but a spongy, felty looking red coat had a beautifully draped lapel and looked great paired with rose coloured platforms.

I think Ms Chung needs to loosen up and have a bit of fun but she’s got a dedicated clientele that want superbly made clothes that don’t scream for attention so why mess with a good thing?

DOO RI SPRING 2010

Some frighteningly short dresses were the order of the day at Doo Ri. Only one pair of trousers made an outing and it felt like a token gesture. Also, the silver platform shoes looked clumpy and a bit tired. There were plenty of frills, twists, tucks and drapes, super short shorts with a frill across the waist were cute. There was a great series of little jackets, some sleeveless, some with folds of drapery spilling over each breast were beautifully realised.

She clearly wants to take the eveningwear route which is fine but with so many amazing clothes out there, Ms Chung is going to have to have an edge over her competitors and I’m not quite sure what that will be. Perhaps if she made an effort with daywear she’d broaden her market.