Christian Dior SS 2012 Review

 One-shouldered dresses? Paging Anne Hathaway. Also, stop trying to make Miranda Kerr happen. She's not going to happen. 

Inappropriate use of formica benchtop scraps. I've seen barbecue pit tile mosaics with more personality.

It must be odd for Dior's current head designer Bill Gaytten. He's really just a caretaker for Dior right now until LVMH bosses find a replacement for John Galliano. He had his chance for his debut spring couture show which did not go over well with critics but it didn't matter what he showed because critics would've been harsh with whatever he'd shown. 

For spring Gaytten did a very restrained collection. No drag queen makeup or geometric objects wedged in a model's head. Just clothes really. The show opened with variations on the classic Bar jacket done in a black and white grid pattern and a lovely-enough cream leather. The necklines dipped low and wide which added a point of interest to an otherwise been there done that look. 

Gaytten added some geometric embroideries that looked better suited to a 60's patio. Then there was the eveningwear which was just so blah. I'm surprised. If Gaytten knows he hasn't got the job he should've gone balls-out crazy but I'd say nothing got sent down that runway without a bunch of men in suits with clipboards. Dior is sad. 

Gareth Pugh SS 2012 Review

If you’ve been following Gareth Pugh’s collections since his early days in London (which weren’t that long ago) you’ll no doubt have noticed how polished and refined his collections have become since decamping to Paris and getting a cash injection from LVMH. He’s striking a perfect balance between commercial and avant garde doing his darndest to please both fashionistas and buyers alike. And he’s succeeding.

Initially I shat on the collection but let it sink in for a while, looked at detail shots, watched the runway video and then ended up liking it very much.

HOWEVER

Things I didn’t like: His penchant for handkerchief point dresses. You can create movement without reverting to such an awful cut. The black and white graphic print that lined one of his jackets. It looks like something from MS Paint, not high fashion. The asymmetric cut jackets. It’s just so unfashionable and is like a school project. Ooh I’m so avant garde I cut things on angles!

I thought the fibreglass helmets were powerful and beautifully made thanks to a collaboration with Phillip Treacy. The inflatable elements add such an interesting dimension to the clothes and I implore you to watch the video because the movement is astounding.

GARETH PUGH SPRING 2010

It was a great day for fans of Gareth Pugh. Instead of his usual over the top creations he pulled in the reins and made something far more approachable and more importantly, wearable. At first I thought some pieces looked too similar to his previous work but I don’t think that’s a bad thing because finally those fans can actually wear his work where as previously it was confined to editorial pieces, celebrities wanting attention and the sartorially brave.

The collection was very covered up, from ankle to wrist for most looks. A curling, zippered collar peeled away leaving a small section of skin exposed on jackets and corsets. One look effectively reversed that look by covering that small section of chest and exposing everything else, breasts included. At first it looked like a winter collection but really what he presented was a great selection of separates. Pull the dress and the pants apart and pair the pants with a t-shirt.
And yes, those zips. There were plenty to play with giving options on how you want to wear a coat. The coats appeared to be in leather and I’m not sure how they’ll fare in summer but whatever, we’re trans-seasonal now right? There were touches of corsetry done in ribbon that was so bunched and twisted it gave an interesting texture to a top and pant. Sexy peek-a-boo pants made of strips were inserted into the shin and lower thigh area. This insert idea is a popular trend emerging for pants and has been seen on other runways such as Gucci.
Presumably gearing his work towards more retail-friendly clothes, Pugh should see a surge in sales next season which is exactly what LVMH, who foot the bill, want to see.