Initially it mostly failed to muster any drama, a key element to Tisci's work. Something was missing. If you look at his 2010 pre-fall collection it's a shining example of what he does best; sharp brooding meets soft romanticism. It's in all his work and many of his trademarks were in this collection: the graphic lacework, the military coat, the organic coral-like embellishment and the nude tones. What he failed to do was whip it into shape and really make the whole collection sing.
What I'd missed the first time round was Tisci delving into the archives and looking back at the 70's. He admitted it was something he'd always been too afraid to do. It seems rather stupid that I'd missed the references to the 70's and Saint Laurent but Tisci's never done this before.
Some of the looks were too busy and the clothes were jostling for attention weighed down with extravagant beads and pailettes then topped off with wide lace hats.
I've studied look two repeatedly as if maybe I'd missed something but I cannot make sense of it. A black satin corset skirt with puckering seams, a cut-out bra which appeared to be clamping the model's breasts making them look short and saggy, a tulle net top and a grim looking hat. Maybe it was shot from a bad angle? Maybe it was just fucking ugly.
Lara Stone looked soigne in a fluffy pink bowed top with cuffed shorts and thigh-hugging suede boots. Other standouts included a gorgeous top with ruffles peeling away from the decolletage. The ruffles also appeared in a black feather-trimmed dress arching out from the elbows displaying Tisci's knack for silhouette.
Despite the mis-steps some of these clothes are truly special and I have huge respect for Tisci and the vision he brings to haute couture.
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