Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2010 Review

I just don't know what to make of John Galliano anymore.

His work now comes off as timid. The spring Haute Couture collection opened with a series of equestrian skirts and jackets. Some of the jackets were done in the style of the classic Dior Bar. Yawn. He's done this countless times over the past few seasons and I call bullshit on it.

Above: Spring 2010 Bar inspiration. Below: Spring 2009 Couture

Below: Fall 2009 Couture

For me it comes down to expectations. For example a Chanel collection just wouldn't be complete without the black and white, the camellias, the chain straps, the tweed suits. They're Chanel staples and Karl whips up variation after variation each season. I'm used to it and I don't expect anything less or anything different. But with Galliano-the Galliano I grew up with-I expect world references pulled from all corners of the globe and envelope-pushing clothes that force you to re-think the way you do or could dress. I think the main reason for my disappointment in this collection is that it is in such stark contrast to the work he did in the early 2000's, when I first started taking a serious interest in fashion so I do have extremely fond memories of say the Spring 2001 prom queen/white trash collection.

Above: The good ole days, Spring 2001 campaign with Angela Lindvall

Unfortunately now he seems to be stating the obvious that rich white women are his clients and his inspiration and they have been for the past few seasons. Just take a look, you'll see his countesses, his debutantes, his first ladies serving as the inspiration for his work.

I do not question his talent, skill and the craft that has gone into this collection, I don't know, I think I'm actually upset that I no longer enjoy the work of a designer whom I once idolised. It's a lament for what I consider to be 'the good ole days' which is wrong because fashion should always be moving and shifting you in new directions. There's no point in Galliano doing a high-octane extravaganza anymore. He did that ten years ago. Of the 35 looks my favourites were look 16, Chanel Iman looking trés Bo Peep and look 21 with Jenny Sinkaberg in a button down dress with a belted swathe of fabric bouncing off one hip.

Above: Look 16, Below: Look 21

John Galliano once said "it's our job to make people dream" but unfortunately Spring 2010 only makes me want to sleep. Here's looking forward to Givenchy.