It was a great day for fans of Gareth Pugh. Instead of his usual over the top creations he pulled in the reins and made something far more approachable and more importantly, wearable. At first I thought some pieces looked too similar to his previous work but I don’t think that’s a bad thing because finally those fans can actually wear his work where as previously it was confined to editorial pieces, celebrities wanting attention and the sartorially brave.
The collection was very covered up, from ankle to wrist for most looks. A curling, zippered collar peeled away leaving a small section of skin exposed on jackets and corsets. One look effectively reversed that look by covering that small section of chest and exposing everything else, breasts included. At first it looked like a winter collection but really what he presented was a great selection of separates. Pull the dress and the pants apart and pair the pants with a t-shirt.
And yes, those zips. There were plenty to play with giving options on how you want to wear a coat. The coats appeared to be in leather and I’m not sure how they’ll fare in summer but whatever, we’re trans-seasonal now right? There were touches of corsetry done in ribbon that was so bunched and twisted it gave an interesting texture to a top and pant. Sexy peek-a-boo pants made of strips were inserted into the shin and lower thigh area. This insert idea is a popular trend emerging for pants and has been seen on other runways such as Gucci.
Presumably gearing his work towards more retail-friendly clothes, Pugh should see a surge in sales next season which is exactly what LVMH, who foot the bill, want to see.
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