Australian based designer Dion Lee’s star is slowly on the
rise. From the get-go he’s drawn attention from editors for his remarkably cut,
beautifully constructed and most importantly, original clothes-a feat for an
Australian designer. I say it’s a feat because unfortunately I see a lot of
Australian fashion ripped directly from the European runways and then these
designers have the gall to pass it off as their own. I think these lazy aussie
designers are quite grateful that they’re a season behind in the southern
hemisphere as it gives them a lot of time to go on international buying trips
and directly copy best selling items from reputable houses. Just to wrap this
segue up the thing that probably gets to me the most is that many Australian
designers have been doing this for so long that they actually believe that this
is what fashion is and how it should be done. They’re nothing more than Zara
with a higher price tag. But not all Australian designers are thieves and Dion Lee along with designers such as
Romance Was Born or shoe designer Phong Chi Lai are leading the way.
For spring Lee picked up on the transparency trend and
started things out with some sharp dresses and pants with sheer inserts in
white. This was contrasted with shots of bright orange and there was a
beautifully minimal leather biker jacket. Lee is a fabric geek and had shiny soundwave
looking lines printed on dresses however this is where things got too tricky
and he lost his way. Editorially some of these pieces will blow you away and
will definitely appear in print but the looping and twisting became so intense
that on some pieces it looked tortured. It was the restrained pieces that
looked modern and easy to wear that will have legs and I think he shouldn’t be
so afraid of control and simplicity. Many young designers in London this season
are really being quite blunt with their collections that it’s like an air horn
being blasted in your face. I think it’s takes true confidence to do away with
bells and whistles and find a balance between artistic flourish and commercial viability.
Dion Lee has shown us that he can meld the two effortlessly but I think he will
be more successful when he learns to edit.
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