Summing up this collection in one word is easy: Uptight. I've loved Stefano Pilati since he started out at YSL. He restored French elegance and gave dignity back to the YSL brand after what many considered a crude butchering by Tom Ford. Over the years Pilati has quietly spawned trends but never quite got the kudos for it. It seemed like every collection he designed had something that editors and buyers went crazy over but it's rarely been the clothes. For spring 2012 the stand out piece from the entire collection were the shoes. A nice suede heel with a curved gold plate mounted to the front is the shoe of the season but the clothes are falling by the wayside yet again.
Unfortunately when the clothes are noticeably forgettable it reinforces the rumours that Pilati will be dropped from the house at any moment. And I feel sorry for the guy because he designs beautiful elegant clothes but are they too elegant? I know that may sound like a stupid question but I think Pilati needs to shock and not let the shadow of YSL hang over him. I think he's trying so hard to maintain the YSL woman that it's getting in the way of designing interesting clothes.
The wrap-style tops were the highlight as was look 29, a flawless baby-doll style dress in midnight blue. The let downs were the ruffled dresses in pine needle green and some 70's boho hippie-trail skirts and dresses.
Pilati needs to be less afraid of doing straight-forward sex. Instead he piles a shapeless coat on a model with bare legs and thinks it's unexpectedly erogenous but it's not working anymore. Hopefully in the coming seasons YSL will be summed up in two words: must have.
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2 comments:
Amazing collection and I agree with you that Stefano is never given enough credit for his genius. However, I disagree with you that he should do straight-forward sex. That was exactly the reason YSL never liked Tom. The main idea of YSL is not about sex. Elegance plays the most important role. Stefano delivers that with the right amount of sexiness and the YSL woman is happy with him. Sales for ready to wear account for almost a third of their revenue. That is enough to say his clothes are selling. They are extremely interesting. Have you ever been to a YSL store to actually look at these clothes in detail.That is where the word 'interesting' applies in stefanos clothes and that is what a YSL customer appreciates most. These women are intimidating, french - like, and out of everyones league. He cannot disrespect what the house stands for because of a fashion community that look only for over the top tackiness!
Re: Anon. Tim Blanks, is dat chu? Thank you for your comments. You make an excellent point and I agree with what you say. Sex is not the answer.
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