Unfortunately a lot of collections lacked originality and just weren't very special. If NZ designers want to gain some international recognition then they need to inject their collections with more personality and have a stronger point of view instead of liberally borrowing from the European collections. Huffer took Prada's foam creeper in an embarrassing show of plagiarism.
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| Photos: Amber & Hilary |
Miuccia is not amused.
As for the trends, well, after looking at a handful of shows I saw a lot of lace, velvet, some awful floral prints, sheer elements, sportswear and the blouse. If young kiwi fashion girls can tear themselves away from Karen Walker for a moment they'll be wearing a blouse next winter. The blouse was everywhere, typically with a 40's cut. There were pussy bows, peter pan collars and leather touches. Huffer, Juliette Hogan, Deryn Schmidt and Annah Stretton all had some variation.
Above: Jimmy D fall 2012
The sheer elements were most evident at Jimmy D who has a very New Zealand fashion aesthetic: Black, drapey and tough much like Nom D, Zambesi and Stolen Girfriend's Club. There were some great pieces but designer James Dobson needs to push himself more. I couldn't help but be reminded of Givenchy's spring 2011 show with the black sheer fabrics and the leather harnessing. Aside from that it was a modern, cohesive collection with many desirable pieces and it was the best show of the season by a mile.
Despite having a number of neon looks, Zambesi's collection had a quiet elegance to it. The Chuck Taylor's were a bit whatever because the sports elements were obvious without the need for a shoe like that. The giant knit collars are great and there was a draped velvet top which was really cool.
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| Photos: Amber & Hilary |
Fluro, tailoring and sportswear at Zambesi
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