Humble cotton took centre stage at Raf Simon’s collection for Jil Sander. The opening looks were a study in layering and construction before Simons moved on to a paisley print in precise skirts, dresses and tops. I’m not a huge fan of paisley but the one done in pink, green, black, and purple on a white base was cool. My favourite looks were the black dress with little jewelled clips at the waist. They were kinda like miniature wings. I loved the forest green jacket that had a kind of 40’s shape with these little ties near each shoulder. The jewelled clips appeared on another dress in that same green with a powder blue hat and a sort of watermelon coloured bag. Flawless.
Some of the later looks in all white were too clinical but they skimmed by fairly quickly and made way for some knits inspired by Picasso’s ceramics (I think). The show finished with bridal-esque gowns done in white cotton. Cathy Horyn described the collection as post-modern without the irony. That’s an accurate, if not highbrow summation. Definitely a top show.
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