There were some cool jackets with circular hoods that opened the show. I felt Nicolas Ghesquiere took a step back in comparison to his fall collection where he really stepped out of his sci-fi comfort zone and offered up beautifully draped silk skirts. Unfortunately the spring collection was too familiar and Ghesquiere was riffing on things he’s done before: the long sleeveless jacket, the built up shoulder, the skinny pant. There was a sexy, snug-fitting vest in black leather which had a zipper closure and a row of round leather covered buttons. Though I’m not a fan of exposed zippers ( I think that trend is dead) Ghesquiere used them as graphic devices, boldly cutting their way from shoulder to hem on an abstract cream and yellow dress. The worst look would’ve been the apple green pants with the hemp coloured vest. A top and skirt that was constructed in a way that made the model look like a magician’s assistant who’d been sliced in half and her torso was sliding off her legs was amazing. There was plenty to like and despite luke-warm reviews, there will be waiting lists for a lot of these clothes.
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