Ilincic was feeling the 40’s for spring. There was plenty of champagne silk and lame goddess gowns with pumped up shoulder pads that weren’t quite worthy of Margiela.
The collection had more simplified and streamlined looks than her previous work yet it didn’t manage to look effortless. Some draped pieces at the beginning lacked finesse and were a tad over-wrought. There were black feathers worked into some pieces but they just looked wrong. There were echoes of Fortuny in the pleating of a skirt which looked beautiful and an oversized black wool jacket looked smart.
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